Maximilian Ulysses Browne (Reichsgraf von Browne, Baron de Camus and Mountany, 1705 – 1757) was a scion of the Irish Wild Geese and rose to high military positions in the Austrian army. At the time of the Prussian monarch Frederik the Great’s attack on Prague in May 1757 he had risen to the rank of field marshal.
‘His vehement opposition to all half-hearted measures brought him frequently into conflict with his superiors (how Irish is that?) but his superiority in the field of battle tactics and his successes over Austria’s enemies placed him in a revered position within the Empire’ as the renowned historical battle romance author G.A Henty related.
Frederik began his attack on Prague by dividing his forces in two encircling Prague on both sides of the river. He himself was billeted in the zámeček (chateau) at Veleslavín, while one of his regiments together with his cavalry were stationed just up the hill at Břevnov Monastery. His main divisions were advancing up the river from Písek, facing the Austrians who were encamped on Vítkov hill.
The Emperor had, stupidly, put his relative, Prince Karl Alexander of Lorraine in overall charge as commander in chief. ‘Had this prince been possessed of military talents, or listened to Marshall Browne’s advice, instead of taking up a defensive position he would have marched with his whole army against the king whose force he would greatly have outnumbered; but instead of doing so he remained inactive’ (Henty again).
Most of Frederik’s forces stationed at the monastery crossed the Vltava by using pontoon bridges to join up with the main group while his generals on the eastern side decided to encircle the Austrians by advancing further southwards.
As Henty continues ‘all this time the Austrians stood inactive, and permitted the Prussian columns to join hands without the slightest attempt to interfere with them. Had Browne been in command very different steps would have been taken; but Prince Karl was indolent, self confident and opinionated’.
In any event Browne swung his forces south from Vitkov shadowing the Prussians’ advance and took the high ground at Šterboholy overlooking a large area of swampy terrain but which in that summer looked to Frederik’s forces like ordinary meadows, ideal to march and haul their artillery across.
The battle commenced on 5th May and heavy losses were sustained on both sides. Marshall Browne led the defence until a cannonball took off his foot and he was carried into Prague where he died six days later. Technically the Prussians were credited with the victory, but the unexpected ferocity of the defence, and the death of several of his leading generals was enough to delay Frederik’s attack on the castle sufficiently until the threat of advancing Austrian reinforcements caused him to retreat back to his own kingdom, never to threaten the Czech lands again.
We met on the eve of the battle at the Nádraží Veleslavín metro station and took in the following attractions en route to our final destination.
Celtic Settlement and Graveyard – the original Celts hailed from Bohemia, and this is one of the many areas they called home. Celtic heritage is still a difficult subject as some Czechs are proud of the connection while others regard them as linked to the hated Germans.
Prague Archbishops’ Residence – backing on to the vastness of Divoká Šarka the palace has since been converted into luxury apartments. Their Lordships might no longer be able to afford one.
Leninová (now Evropská), which replaced Kladenská as gateway to the West. It was also the gateway for Warsaw Pact tanks rolling in from Prague airport in 1968.
Buštěhrad railway, horse drawn line up to the 1830s conveying coal to Prague from the Kladno region. Mooted, over the last 20 years, as a high-speed link to the airport, but may take another 20 to finalise.
Cinema, Nad stanicí 1 – Final performance for local Nazis, 1945 – a summary, violent and revengeful ending to a dreadful period in Czech history. Unfortunately civilians ending up on the ‘wrong’ side were not immune.
Bust of Daniel Adam z Veleslavína – 1546 – 1599. Professor at Karlová univerzita 1569 – 1576 (but had to resign on marriage like women up to recent times in the Irish public service!). Followed his father into publishing. Major work a Czech translation of the Bible – renowned for its excellent Czech!
Old village well – dating from the 16th century and part of underground water supply from source at Liboc to Prague Castle gardens. Yes, we are higher than Prague Castle here!
Zámek (chateau) – built between 1730 and 1750, designed by Kilian Ignac Dientztenhofer – Frederik II lodged here (airbnb?) while he was, eh, visiting Prague. Oskar Fischer and Leo Kosák set up clinic there in early 20th century for nervous disorder and lung diseases. Charlotte Masaryk, wife of the first president, was a patient there in 1923 and used to be visited by her husband Tomáš on horse from Prague Castle. Nazis confiscated the property and sent the owners to death camps. Ironic that some of the former now lie secretly buried in the gardens! (see cinema reference).
Village centre, great pub which served on draught Plzeň, Svijany and Staropramen but regrettably closed in 2018 to make way for a pension, which still hasn’t opened! Nearby are a religious shrine and crucifix station which have to substitute for absence of a village church.
Section of original pathway trodden by Frederik’s horse, carving its way through the famous Veleslavín quarries, the stone from which was ferried to build the Malostrana palaces during reign of Emperor Rudolf (1552 – 1612). Rudolf was a benign ruler and the first since Charles IV to live in the Castle. He was a humanist, art lover and scientist. Johannes Kepler and Ticho Brahe were his court astronomers). He hunted at the nearby Hvězda and is buried in St Vitus.
North Korean embassy – displaying, as is their wont, photos of their many happy citizens adoring The Great Leader.We smile with them.
Restaurace Větrník – First wooden mill erected here in 1277. Present stone structure was built in 1722 and has long since been converted into a beautiful restaurant still with its original well which is 30m deep. We rest here while a short presentation of Frederik’s battle plans is given. He probably did the same in 1757. The beer would have been cheaper then so he might have stayed longer.
On to our final destination – Břevnov monastery, this involves a walk of maybe 500 metres through the monks’ fruit orchard and down a series of steps to the famous old monastic church, and of course, the even more famous beer gardens, where the pious and barefoot brethren still brew some of the best beer in central Europe.
Those whose interest is whetted by this short summary should refer to Wikipedia in general and G.A. Henty’s ‘With Frederik the Great: A Story of the Seven Years War’ (accessible freely in the Gutenberg index) for further reading.
Also you should listen (via YouTube) to a great if little known composer, František Kočvara who wrote a stirring symphony entitled ‘The Battle of Prague’ just thirty one years after the event. The pieces, in order, comprise – Word of Command, Slow March, First Signal Cannon, The Bugle Call of the Cavalry, Prussians and Imperialists – The Attack, Cries of the Wounded, The Trumpet of Victory, God Save the King, Turkish March, Tatoo and Finale.
The full orchestral version is best but the mainly piano version by the Regency Rum Bluffers uses toy soldiers to depict the various actions.
The Wild Geese Society will continue to commemorate our Irish Wild Geese, and in particular, their impact on the lands of the Bohemian Crown. Our next adventure in this particular area will feature the Irish Franciscan monks, their history, monastery and church on Hybernská, the final resting place of so many of our Wild Geese, on the church’s foundation date of 15 August. Ná dein dearmad. Bígí linn!
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